I looked at 3 starch paste designs and 2 designs from the shisha chapters. The design is first followed by the stitching.
Background is dyed homespun with cablestitched circles. Green wool roving needlefelted through from the back to make the circle patterns less distinct. The white 'needlefelt' effect came from the stiff interfacing backing embellished through in the process. Spirals of copper mesh were couched down with free motion whip stitch using metallic thread in the bobbin.
Stitched on a background of black wool again, the coiled shapes were cable stitched from the back using different thicknesses of white, yellow perle and copper metallic threads.