Chapter 2 - Traditional embroidery samples

At this stage I had not selected a type of flower to study historically and so no obvious design came to mind when I needed to make embroidery sample flowers.
I decided instead to examine a favourite embroidered panel from the 17th century, take a small area, enlarge it and use selected areas of design to sample embroider.
Photo 2.1 shows the presentation A3 board with the original panel top left and the section bordered in a white frame enlarged to give the large design in the centre.



2.1

The embroidery samples are displayed around the outside using selected motifs or white framed areas (approx 2.5 x 3cm) as the design.  Starting from top right these samples are as follows:

2.2

Long and short satin stitch in cotton embroidery floss on linen.

2.3

The attached flap (top right in 2.3) is sewn in dyed Perle cotton on linen using a chain stitch border and Hollie point interior.
The 3-dimensional petals were sewn using the same thread and stitch.  An initial wire shape was couched onto linen backing, covered completely in buttonhole stitch (photo 2.4) before being filled in.  Having completed only 2 petals I can't imagine doing a whole flower let alone the motifs created in the light-challenged 17th century!

2.4

2.5

Photo 2.6 shows a sample of tent stitch in cotton floss over fine cotton using waste canvas as a guide.  Some of the canvas threads have been left in for demonstration.

2.6

Photo 2.7 demonstrates close rows of chain stitch in various shades using cotton floss on linen.

2.7

Photo 2.8 presents one of the design leaves in Kantha stitching (running stitch).  Several layers of fine lawn have been used as this embroidery technique often combined fabric layers with slight puckering to give extra warmth to the material as well as decoration.

2.8

Blackwork or monochromatic stitching was popular at this time (photo 2.9).  The slip here outine in stem stitch uses speckling in green to give shading to the motif.

2.9

Photos 2.10 and 2.11 show a slip motif in raised embroidery (stumpwork) in satin stitch over a small felt shape and a raised couched band in green on calico.

2.10

2.11